Peter Searles 11/15/24 Peter Searles 11/15/24

FWE - Finished With Engine My Great Loop is Complete

I completed the Great Loop this morning with Dave and Pam along at the end, just as they were there at the beginning. Good friends, such as Dave and Pam, make everything more fun and I’ve been fortunate enough to have many good friends join me at various stages of the voyage. Other good friends who were unable to make the trip for one reason or another, were all in contact throughout the 8 months of the Loop which was appreciated.

The final Loop details:

5845 miles

1392 gallons of diesel

4.2 miles per gallon

$3.94 average fuel cost per gallon

907 engine hours

1.53 gallons per hour

124 total locks

228 total days since commencement of the Loop

141 actual travel days

41.5 average miles traveled per day

1 lousy Google review1

The Brilliant Venus loading coal at Mobile

Dave having another good day. He only has these 365 days each year.

Schuyler docked at Lulu’s restaurant in Alabama

Dave and Pam enjoying some lo-cal nachos for lunch at Lulu’s

The last sunset of the Loop. Note Venus in the upper left and its reflection in the water.

Our last sunrise on the Loop was a great one!

Sharing a champagne toast with Dave and Pam upon completing the Loop

Peter Searles 11/12/24 Peter Searles 11/12/24

On The Home Stretch

Three more travel days and my version of the Great Loop will be complete. What seemed overwhelming and a little scary in April now seems downright routine in November. I had read all about the Loop and watched You Tube videos of other boats on their adventures but there was still some apprehension and fear of the unknown. Uncertainty about how to handle locks, anchorages, entering Canada and back into the USA all worked themselves out with no major difficulties at all. It turns out that there is plenty of support from a variety of sources along the way. With a little common sense thrown in (very little in my case), the trip is safe, fun, and even a little educational.

Some of the scenery along the Tenn-Tom Waterway. The vast majority of the Tenn-Tom was just like this - undeveloped.

Another beautiful sunset while at anchor.

The Coffeeville Lock was my 124th lock and the last lock of the Loop - back to sea level. The term “I’m locked out” has new meaning.

We woke up to heavy fog the other morning. To paraphrase Harrison Ford in Raiders of the Lost Ark in referring to snakes, "Fog, I hate fog!”.

Dave whipping up spaghetti, meatballs, and garlic toast for dinner. Yes, that’s an even larger knife within arms reach.

The interstate 65 bridge just north of Mobile, Alabama. We’re getting close to the Gulf!

Peter Searles 11/9/24 Peter Searles 11/9/24

Tenn-Tom Complete

As planned, Dave and Pam joined Schuyler in Aberdeen, Mississippi and will be with me until completing the Loop in Pensacola on November, 15th (a few days earlier than originally planned). Tonight we find ourselves in Demopolis, Alabama which is the end of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway and about 275 miles from Pensacola. Tomorrow we begin the Black Warrior River which takes us to Mobile, AL and the Gulf coast. It’s hard to believe that the Great Loop adventure will be over in 6 days.

I met up with my friends Jeff and Trish in Florence, AL. Bill and I first met them while traveling the Trent-Severn Waterway in early July.

A waterfall on the Tennessee River just before starting on the Tenn-Tom.

A dinghy ride to Goat Island from the anchorage.

There were some interesting things on Goat Island including this tree with the root system exposed

Who would have guessed that on Goat Island there were actually goats.

Schuyler alongside Jim and Pam’s dock in Aberdeen Lake, Mississippi. This is where I picked up Dave and Pam.

Pete throwing a line around one of the lock bits.

Is there anything more terrifying than Dave with a knife in hand?

A kingfisher hitched a ride for a while.

A beautiful picture of Pam’s toes (and a nice sunrise)

The 78 foot Lady Chateau entering the Bevill Lock behind us.

Dave offering his head as a fender in a lock. I suggested that we go with the more traditional fendering system to avoid damaging the lock wall.

If Pam is aboard, we’ve got bridge pictures to share!

White cliffs along the Tenn-Tom in Alabama

Peter Searles 10/31/24 Peter Searles 10/31/24

Back On The Loop

After three weeks back in Houston for my usual medical checkup, I returned to Schuyler and started the 332 mile trek back down the Tennessee River to the Tennessee-Tombigbee (Tenn-Tom) Waterway. The Tenn-Tom begins the home stretch for Schuyler to complete the Loop in Pensacola, Florida.

I am currently in Florence, Alabama where I have reunited with my friends on Oyster, Jeff and Trish. For regular blog readers, you will remember that Bill and I met up with Oyster on the Trent-Severn Waterway in Canada. There have been many memorable moments from the Loop but the time we spent with them has been one of the highlights of the entire Loop.

There is less than a week to go before I pick up Dave and Pam near Aberdeen, Mississippi around November 5th and complete the Loop around November 18th. It seems only fitting that they complete the Loop with me since they where there at the start. I have been solo since September 13th so it will be nice to have some company again.

Some of the trees beginning to change into fall colors

A Looper enjoying Halloween at Ditto Landing

A replica of the original ferry at Ditto Landing, Alabama

The Decatur railroad bridge being lowered after I passed

When the doors of the first Wilson lock chamber opened, I had this guy staring at me. I had to squeeze by him to enter the second lock chamber. Not a lot of room!

At the bottom of the Wilson double lock in Alabama. Nearly 100 foot drop in two increments.

Peter Searles 10/7/24 Peter Searles 10/7/24

Loop Update

For those of you following my Loop adventure and wondering why I haven’t posted any updates recently, I have docked the boat in Ten Mile, Tennessee for about 3 weeks while I return to Houston for a routine doctor visit. My Friday checkup went fine and do not need to be back in Houston again until mid-December.

The Tennessee River is a lot like the Hudson River with mountains (or big hills depending on ones frame of reference) on either side but less developed and with a couple nuclear power plants along the way.

I plan on returning to the boat on October 23rd and begin heading down the Tennessee River to complete the Loop in Pensacola around November 18th. Since April when I started, I have completed just over 5,000 miles of the Loop. Only 1,000 miles to go. Hopefully the west coast of Florida won’t be completed obliterated by hurricanes before I get there.

Another nuclear power plant along the Tennessee River

The Hunter Museum in Chattanooga. It was quite a climb from the river level to the city level.

Late September and the leaves have already started to change

A nice day on the river. The next day, I tangled (a little) with the remnants of hurricane Helene. Fortunately, I arrived at the marina to come home and missed all the debris and high water from Helene that came a day or two later. I saw a picture of a lock that was so filled with debris that a boat was not able to push its way into the lock chamber.

The Watts Lock - my last upboad lock. When locking up, the water in the very front or rear of the lock offers the least turbulance which makes it easier to keep the boat properly positioned when traveling solo.

Peter Searles 9/25/24 Peter Searles 9/25/24

Chattanooga, Here I Come!

I continue my solo voyage up the Tennessee River towards the Knoxville area. As it turns out, I’ll be stopping a little short of my intended destination of Fort Loudon because the University of Tennessee has a home football game and all the nearby marinas are full of Volunteer fans. I thought that I was working far enough in advance asking for a slip 10-12 days out; was I wrong on that one!

Speaking of mistakes, anyone ever made one? I made one the other day. I was anchoring for the night and decided to drop the hook on a plateau that showed 6 feet of water on the chart. I hoped to minimize the muck on the chain that would ultimately end up in my chain locker after retrieving the anchor in the morning. That plan became moot when I awoke at 4 AM for my nightly potty visit. Everything seemed OK until the door didn’t close behind me like usual which meant that the boat wasn’t listing to the port side with my weight. Apparently, the 6 foot plateau I had scoped out wasn’t consistently 6 feet. After some engine and anchor finagling, I managed to move off my carefully selected anchoring spot for deeper water about 50 yards away. As my father famously said (on more than one occasion), “I thought I made a mistake once, but I was wrong”. I should be so lucky!

For those wondering where Meow Mix lived, now you know! Decatur, Alabama

The Wilson Lock has a lift of about 100'. Locking solo has turned out to be easier than I expected.

At the top of the Wilson Lock. The door ahead recedes into the lock depths instead of swinging open like usual.

A panoramic view of my anchorage two nights ago

Same view as the last picture the following morning

Not as colorful as some but a beautiful sunrise just the same.

Part of a tree floating down the river and a reminder of why small boats shouldn't travel at night

Schuyler docked at the free dock at Shellmound Park

Peter Searles 9/20/24 Peter Searles 9/20/24

I Almost Forgot….

That I had more favorable reviews! I’m not about to have one disgruntled guest/brother define the Schuyler experience without putting up some countervailing (pretty big word for me) opinions.

First, from Roger:

Jo and I boarded “Schuyler” in Chicago on our arrival from England on the 4th September, a triumph of navigation and timing as our flights were booked many months before based on Pete’s best guesstimate.

The voyage to St Louis was a delight. Sailing through the heart of Chicago, visiting different marinas and types (and qualities) of restaurants. Dealing with massive barge tows and huge locks, seeing the Asian Carp jump (once into our boat), meeting other ‘Loopers’ and always time to chat and generally put the world to rights.

Unlike the reported experience of one previous passenger, start times were civilised and breakfast fulfilling. We were also never asked to sleep on the dining table but installed in the owners suite, although with the hospitality offered there was occasionally the risk of sliding under the table! We suspect the previous one star rating to be libelous and probably actionable and have no hesitation in giving our passage five stars.

Thanks Pete, it was a blast!

And from Jo:

When I decided to join the ‘Schuyler’ with my husband and Pete recently I did briefly wonder whether I might be consigned to woman’s work, clearing up, washing up, tidying up, in other words being a housewife. But no, I had my task, the ropes and fenders at the stern of the boat, coming into mooring or at the huge locks we passed through. An important task which I took on safely and happily and with care. Yes of course I did wash up a few plates, but I did so willingly and with love. I also put together a couple of meals, one we ate together with my homemade paper candles and I wore a long dress for the occasion but they were not ‘work’ they were a way of saying ‘thanks’ to Pete for allowing us to be part of his amazing adventure. So Pete, here are my thanks for a wonderful time visiting different places, seeing unusual things, gorgeous sunsets and sunrises, and special people we met along the way, and of course not forgetting magic music from ‘Bridge’ ? Also doing jigsaws on your computer. It was an unforgettable time, and I loved it and admire you. With much love and hugs Jo xx

Thanks to both Roger and Jo (the agreed payment for the good reviews is in the mail).

I woke up to heavy fog the other morning so I lost a couple of hours waiting for it to burn off.

Uh oh, I'm already underway this morning and I see fog up ahead. Couldn't see very far once I got into it but knew there wasn't a commercial vessel out there because of AIS, I did sound my horn, warning any other non-AIS vessels of my presence.

Some homes high above the Tennessee River

Peter Searles 9/18/24 Peter Searles 9/18/24

“Longer but Shorter” - Huh?

The Mississippi River turned out to be far less intimidating than I had feared. There were plenty of 40 barge tows that were 1,200 feet long but there was also plenty of room to maneuver and avoid any close encounters of the disastrous kind. Along the way, I met a number of other Loopers in varying degrees of Loop completion. For the last several days I travelled with 2 other boats, Perfect Agenda, and Don’t Fret which helped the time pass on some of the longer travel days (96 miles one day). Unfortunately, they stopped for a rest day at Green Turtle Bay Resort but I pushed ahead because I’ve got places to go and people to see.

From Paducah, we were advised to take the Ohio River to the Cumberland River and south to Kentucky Lake that way because taking the shorter Tennessee River route would subject us to a long wait at the Kentucky Lock of perhaps 2-3 hours. Commercial traffic always gets priority over pleasure craft and the Kentucky Lock is the primary route from the Ohio River to the Tennessee River for commercial traffic. So, while is was double the distance for us, we had no barge traffic on the Cumberland at all and a clear lock chamber when we arrived resulting in a shorter overall journey.

I am currently heading up the Tennessee River toward Knoxville and expect to be there on 10/1. I will fly home for my obligatory doctor visit on the 4th and, because I am trying to not get to the Gulf Coast too soon and be exposed to the end of hurricane season, I will delay the resumption of the Loop until about the 25th. Projecting ahead, I expect to complete the Loop at Pensacola on or about 11/15 after covering more than 6,000 miles.

I've had plenty of beautiful sunsets on the Loop but this was probably the most colorful sunrise of the entire trip.

Schuyler at anchor about ready to weigh anchor and head out for the day. (photo courtesy of Perfect Agenda)

Schuyler traveling down the Mississippi River. (photo courtesy of Perfect Agenda)

A large welcoming sign at Cape Girardeau, Missouri on their flood control wall

My traveling companions aboard Don't Fret and Perfect Agenda

The flood wall at Paducah, Kentucky was filled with murals depicting their history. There are more than 60 murals in total.

11 Loopers at dinner in Paducah trading Loop stories

An impressive home along the Tennessee River

Peter Searles 9/14/24 Peter Searles 9/14/24

The Mighty Mississippi River

Schuyler officially exited the Illinois River which converged with the Mississippi River just north of St. Louis. The Mississippi River begins in Minnesota and ends in the U.S. Gulf of Mexico, after 2,340 miles of winding through 10 states. Although different sources have varying lengths, the Missouri River is acknowledged as being the longest river in the US, flowing through 7 different states before emptying into the Mississippi.

Roger and Jo left me in Alton, Illinois yesterday after 8 days aboard for a short stay in St. Louis followed by a few more days in Chicago before heading back to the UK. It was great to have them on board, especially since I hadn’t seen them in 4 years. I was nice to have the help through the locks on the Illinois River.

I was a little apprehensive about dealing with the locks solo but managed the first two yesterday without difficulty. The first lock I encountered was 1,200 feet (366 m) long and 110 feet (33.5 m) wide - and Schuyler was the only boat in the lock. I thought that the locks on the Illinois River were large at 600 feet long!

Only 2-3 more days on the Mississippi before a northward turn on to the Ohio River at Cairo, Illinois for about 50 miles.

With Roger and Jo enjoying our last dinner together at Alton, IL

Passing in front of the famous Gateway Arch in St. Louis. The stainless steel arch stands 630 feet tall and was completed in 1965.

Roger took this picture rom their hotel of Schuyler passing by the arch.

There I am, the little boat passing and big river tow.

My quiet little anchorage at the Meramec River.

Peter Searles 9/10/24 Peter Searles 9/10/24

The Sometimes Scenic Illinois River

Most of the Illinois River has been quiet and serene but there have also been parts that are very industrial. The commercial river traffic proceeds 24/7 as we found out in Joliet. In this part of the river, the traffic seems to be predominately grain barges; nearer to Chicago, it was almost all gravel and sand.

We have one more full day and one more lock to transit on the Illinois River before merging with the Mississippi River a little north of St. Louis. We find ourselves in Beardstown, IL tonight at one of the more scenic marina stops (not really) along the entire Great Loop. See pictures below. Last night we anchored in a peaceful little place at Havana, IL. There were four other Loop boats at the same anchorage but there was plenty of room for everyone.

Wanna hear a fish tale? Too bad, here it is anyway: This fish, all 20 inches of him, jumped in the boat as we were minding our own business heading down river.

Earlier in the morning, the bridge was not even visible

The sun trying to burn off the morning fog

The morning fog highlighted a few of the many spider webs on the boat.

Passing a tow boat on the Illinois River

Enjoying a glass of bubbly with Jo. Note the classy champagne glasses which perform multiple functions as glasses for cocktails, orange juice, or anything else.

We met another Loop couple at a marina and had dinner together

Enjoying an (almost) candlelight dinner on the boat.

We were inundated with Mayflies when we got up this morning. There were all over everything but harmless enough. They live for one day only and die off.

Our "marina" was being tied up to a series of work barges. No electricity and I had to drag a water hose from 3 barges over. NOT five star accommodations by any means.

Peter Searles 9/6/24 Peter Searles 9/6/24

Patience is a Virtue

The last couple of days since Roger and Jo have joined has been a exercise in patience. First, the Volvo engine service I had scheduled three weeks ago for the morning of 4 September got canceled because the technician came down with COVID. Sooo, they rescheduled for the following morning at 9 AM. We had planned to leave first thing in the morning on the 5th so had to adjust the plan a bit. Then, Roger and Jo’s plane had mechanical issues in London and was late arriving at Chicago. Instead of eating out somewhere as originally planned, we ate on the boat - not a major issue.

Instead of arriving at 9AM to do the engine service as promised, the technician arrived after 10 AM putting us even further behind. Eventually, we got underway at 12:30 and, because of the engine service, plus lock and bridge delays, we didn’t arrive in Joliet until 7:30 PM when it was dark. The good news was that the free dock in Joliet still had room for us when we arrived. The bad news was that we were about 100 feet away from a draw bridge which was incredibly noisy with traffic all night. If that wasn’t enough, the bridge opened several times during the night for barge traffic. Each time the bridge opened, the siren went off to indicated the bridge was about to open followed but a constant ringing of a bell while the bridge was opened. It made for a less-than-restful night’s sleep.

Today, we encountered a railroad bridge which was closed that should have been open so we lost 30 minutes there. The first lock we passed this morning was all tied up with a long tow locking through which delayed us a further 2 hours and 30 minutes. For our last lock, there was a thunderstorm that closed the lock for a brief period which delayed up another 30 minutes. We finally arrived at the marina in Ottawa, Illinois around 7 PM, tired but glad to be here.

Tomorrow, it’s on to Henry, Illinois.

Leaving Chicago. That's the Sears Tower (the original name known by locals) in the background - 110 stories high.

Loading gravel on one of the many barges we saw near Chicago

In order to prevent Asian carp from entering Lake Michigan, an electric barrier exists. Dangling the feet of unruly crew members in the water helps improve morale.

A tow boat passing us by at Joliet. The free dock was annoyingly close to the bridge.

Peter Searles 9/1/24 Peter Searles 9/1/24

Sophie in Chicago - Day 2

For me, Chicago has turned into a surprising gem on the Loop. This has turned out to be yet another highlight of the trip. What a great place to get out and do outdoor activities this time of year! Besides boating, there are beaches, parks, biking, museums, jazz festivals, and food - all in really nice neighborhoods. What we read and hear about all the violence happening in Chicago has not been my experience at all. There is so much to see and do here that I’d love to come back someday and explore some more.

Sophie leaves in the morning but left this Google review (Pay no attention to the earlier review by that other guy)

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

If you’re in the mood for a boat ride filled with unexpected twists and laughs, the MV Schuyler is your ticket to an unforgettable adventure. Whether it’s expertly navigating Lake Michigan or accidentally giving himself a waste tank shower (stand clear, folks), Captain Sarcasm keeps you on your toes. But no worries, he made a strong recovery, showing off some impressive his electric bike skills—who knew that was part of the package?

We made a pitstop to check out the Cloud Gate and indulged in some Chicago dogs and pizza. While the pizza was a bit blah, walking by Wrigley Field made up for it with some top-notch people-watching.

Oh, and be prepared for spontaneous comedy sessions when the captain’s YouTube channel of choice takes over the day. If you’re not ready to laugh till you cry—or cringe—you might want to think twice. But if you are, you’re in for a five-star trip that’s equal parts hilarious and unpredictable!

We accidentally came upon Wrigley Field, home of the Chicago Cubs on our way to an ice cream shop. There was no baseball on the schedule but a Pearl Jam concert instead.

After eating Chicago pizza for dinner, we had to get ice cream (I think it's a local law)

Officially, this famous Chicago landmark is called "Cloud Gate". Unofficially, and more popularly, It's called "The Bean".

The Jay Pritzker Pavilion (Outdoor Amphitheater)

Peter Searles 8/30/24 Peter Searles 8/30/24

Great Loop by the Numbers

I have been requested to provide some Loop stats. It’s interesting to note that the person making this request was also the person who gave me a 1-Star Google review. Therefore, I carefully considered whether or not I wanted to honor his request or not-so-politely suggest what he might do with his request. Alas, I only have one brother and I did, after all, run out of Jack Daniels so here are some stats (as of 27 August) that many may find interesting.

3,729 - Total miles from Pensacola, Florida to Chicago, Illinois

70 - Percentage of the total trip completed

148 - Total days since leaving Pensacola

90 - Total running days (58 days lost to returning home for medical issues and various other stops)

876 - Total gallons of diesel consumed

4.26 - Average miles per gallon

586 - Engine hours

41.4 - Average miles traveled per day

82 - Total number of locks traversed so far

1 - Total number of lousy Google reviews

Sophie, my step-daughter, flew up to Chicago for the Labor Day weekend. We rented electric bikes today and rode 10 miles up and down the bike trail along Lake Shore Drive. Chicago has been a very pleasant surprise - lots of people out doing fun things, nice neighborhoods, and, of course, Chicago pizza.

Sophie wants to move here for the scenery. Not the Lake front scenery, the two-legged, shirtless male scenery. She was very impressed - Me, not so much!

We stopped along the way for some freshly made lemonade.

While out on our bike ride we ran across a beach volleyball tournament.

We decided to boil some shrimp for dinner - they were truly awful.

Turns out that Chicago has some nice sunsets too!

Peter Searles 8/28/24 Peter Searles 8/28/24

Goodbye, Michigan

Schuyler spent 12 full days in the State of Michigan, but we now find ourselves in Michigan City, Indiana and back into the Central Time Zone. Michigan has been beautiful and another in a long list of Loop highlights. Why would Michigan City which is in Indiana be named that you may ask? It turns out that it was so-named in 1832 because this was the endpoint for Michigan Road which ran from Indianapolis to Lake Michigan.

Tomorrow we head across the lake 40 miles to Chicago (we can actually see the Chicago skyline from here) where Don will depart. I’m ready to get off the Lake as it’s been a little rough at times. The inland rivers will be a pleasant change of pace from lake travel.

I forgot to post this picture when we were in Saugatuck but it's an interesting story.

I think Don my be trying to tell me something by sending me this picture. Like someone would ever do that to me!

A wild turkey roaming the marina grounds in St. Joseph, Michigan. West Basin Marina was one of the nicest marinas I've seen along the Loop.

Peter Searles 8/26/24 Peter Searles 8/26/24

Saugatuck, Michigan

We arrived at Saugatuck, MI today which is another of Michigan’s fantastic little lakefront towns. The restaurant just about 50 feet away from the boat was just so-so for dinner but the ice cream we had, which was a short walk away, was awesome! Two more stops and just over 100 miles to go before reaching Chicago and the beginning of the journey down the inland waterways to the Gulf Coast and the completion of the Loop in Pensacola, Florida. I’ve got nearly 3,700 miles behind me which is about 70% of the Loop as planned. A potential side trip to Knoxville will add more distance but will keep me away from the Gulf Coast until hurricane season is over.

Another blog, another lighthouse picture.

Another picture of the morning sun at Muskegon.

The Milwaukee Clipper, originally built in 1904 (7 years before Titanic). At one time, she carried 350 passengers in first class accommodations between Buffalo, New York and Duluth, Minnesota. Not sure why that was a hot trade route but that's what it did. She was rebuilt in 1940 to replace the original wooden superstructure with what you see here today.

World War II submarine "USS Silversides" now a museum at Muskegon, MI

More sand dunes along the Michigan coast

A swimming party going on entering Saugatuck

A beautiful home along the Kalamazoo River entering Saugatuck

Another impressive "summer place" on the Kalamazoo River

I'm sure the owner of this boat agonized over the naming of the boat. His first child is named "Baby". His second child is called "Kid".

Peter Searles 8/24/24 Peter Searles 8/24/24

Crisis Counseling?

An email from my ever-helpful brother, Bill:

Did you tell Don that he has to sleep on the kitchen table?

Did you tell Don about the wonderful meals he can expect?

Did you tell Don that he will be getting up at the butt crack of dawn?

My response:

No, no, and no.

(But he learns fast)

Bill’s helpful reply:

That's what I thought.
I pray for him daily. If he finds himself in crisis, I am here for him.

What I’m thinking:

There’s a zero percent chance I’m referring ANYONE to Bill for crisis counselling!

Don and I find ourselves in Pentwater, MI which happens to be the home of a classic and wooden boat show at the Pentwater Yacht Club today. See pictures below for a few of the boats.

SS City of Milwaukee is a Great Lakes railroad car ferry and could carry 28–32 fully loaded rail cars between Muskegon, Michigan and Milwaukee, Wisconsin. She was built in 1931 and remained in service until 1981. This is the only pre-1940s ship of this type to survive.

The town of Pentwater, MI is a beautiful place with a great waterfront.

This Ford Mustang is neither classic nor wooden but it's certainly unusual! I don't see running lights but his horn worked just fine.

Peter Searles 8/23/24 Peter Searles 8/23/24

East Coast of Lake Michigan

We’ve had a great trip down the East Coast of Lake Michigan so far. We had “lumpy” water the last couple of days but nothing too severe. The Great Lake waters are odd from my salt water experience with swells coming from one direction and waves seemingly coming from all other directions making for a confused sea.

The Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore was quite a sight with miles and miles of sand dunes rising several hundred feet above water level. Apparently there are signs at the top of the dunes advising that anyone traversing down the dunes and requiring rescue from the bottom will be charged $3,000 per person.

Tomorrow we continue south on Lake Michigan toward Pentwater and, ultimately, Chicago. Arrival in Chicago is expected to be on August 29th.

The Frankfort Harbor Lighthouse was acquired by the town and will be refurbished

Part of the Sleeping Bear National Seashore. The dunes went on for miles.

More of the Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore

This picture gives some sense of the height of these dunes. Incredible.

A dock house about to fall into Lake Michigan.

Peter Searles 8/21/24 Peter Searles 8/21/24

Anyone wondering where I went?

After 3 weeks in Houston, I’m back on the boat and continuing the Loop. Don joined me yesterday in Traverse City, Michigan and will be aboard until Chicago on 8/29. The weather has been spectacular as evidenced by the below screen shot of the Traverse City weather. Contrast that to Houston temperatures of around 100 with lousy air quality and it’s easy to see why this is so much more enjoyable. I haven’t been here in the winter, of course, so I might have a slightly different take on things in January. At least one can dress for winter weather.

Things went well in Houston. My oncologist says that my blood work is all good and that I don’t need to see him again until late October. At this point, I feel pretty confident that all will be OK going forward. It’s just a matter of keeping up with my medication.

Don and I getting ready to begin the voyage south to Chicago

A beautiful sunset over Lake Michigan at Leland.

Peter Searles 7/24/24 Peter Searles 7/24/24

Mackinac Island

During the course of this Great Loop adventure, Florida, South Carolina, the Chesapeake Bay, New York City including the Hudson River, and the Trent-Severn Waterway have all been memorable in their own distinct ways. But, as much as I liked all of those, Mackinac Island has them all beat. It is truly spectacular here. As far as I know, this is the only place in the USA where cars and other motor vehicles, including golf carts, are banned. Instead, horse-drawn taxis and bicycles move people about the island. I saw a horse-drawn wagon with an Amazon box on it for delivery!

People get here by ferry, private boat, or charter flight from the mainland. There are a number of hotels and resorts here and all the luggage is delivered by wagon to the destination. Restaurants of all varieties can be found here as well as loads of ice cream and fudge shops. I felt compelled to sample at least one each of the fudge and ice cream establishments. I’m pleased to report they are safe for human consumption.

Beyond all of the above, they have a miniature golf course here. What so remarkable about that you may ask yourself - after all, don’t all resorts and tourist destinations have at least one? You would be correct but have you ever seen one without side walls and concrete and with REAL grass? Me either! See pictures below.

The tug Olive L. Moore, a mere 96 years old pushing an ore barge. Apparently she was built initially to transit the Chicago River with a low air draft. Obviously, it has been retrofitted with an elevated wheelhouse.

Horse-drawn wagons being loaded for delivering goods around the island

The main street a little way out of town

One of the resorts. Guests and luggage delivered by horse and wagon.

A small inn at the edge of the main street

Peter Searles 7/22/24 Peter Searles 7/22/24

Back in the USA (Almost)

Schuyler has nearly completed the transit of Canada. Today’s arrival at Thessalon, Ontario marks the last stop in Canada before setting off for Drummond, Michigan. In researching this adventure, I had read many accounts of how beautiful Canada was and how, for many, it was the highlight of the Loop. After experiencing if for myself, I can see why so many hold that opinion. Besides the natural beauty, pristine environment, and some of the unique locks, the Canadians that we encountered were extraordinarily helpful and friendly without exception. As Americans, we have easy access to all that Canada has to offer and I certainly plan to take advantage of that in the future. Beyond all that, the exchange rate is favorable too - what’s not to love about Canada?

From the start of this adventure in Pensacola, FL on April 3rd until now, I’ve covered over 3,250 miles or approximately 60% of the expected Loop. I can’t wait to see what the next 2.000 miles has in store.